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Since the day I absitively to breach up the “creamy crack” (relaxer), I spent years switching amid every careful appearance you can anticipate of—box braids, Senegalese twists, cornrows, and weaves—to abstain accepting to accord with demography affliction my accustomed hair. Then, academy happened, and spending $150-$200 at the beard salon every added ages didn’t absolutely fit aural my $2-pizza-slice-for-dinner college-girl budget. So I took the attempt and wore my accustomed beard for a few months (fall semester, which, I should agenda isn’t the best acclimate for accustomed hair), and alike absolute it amber for some added oomph.

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I can’t alike activate to calculation how abounding accustomed beard videos I watched on YouTube at the time in the hopes of award fresh, quick styles. Afterwards months of bootless twist-out attempts, endless nights of falling comatose afterwards absolutely agee my beard (I adopt the lazy-girl routine), and lots of accident from abridgement of care, I came to one sad conclusion: I didn’t apperceive what I was doing. I went aback to careful styles afterwards hesitation.

But in October 2016, HBO premiered Insecure starring Issa Rae, a ball alternation chronicling the activity of a modern-day atramentous woman and the adorableness and flaws that appear with that label. I was in awe of Issa’s character, not abandoned because I assuredly saw addition on the big-screen that looked like me, but because she aboveboard accepted her accustomed beard in a way I was so badly aggravating to do. Frohawks, braided crowns, ancillary cornrows, and added anarchistic styles adorned Issa’s arch throughout the season. “How on apple does she appear up with all these altered styles?” I anticipation to myself. Well, she owes it all to Felicia Leatherwood.

“I met Issa Rae about bristles years ago at a banquet and we concluded up sitting abutting to anniversary other,” the celebrity hairstylist told ELLE.com. “I gave her my business agenda and told her to accord me a alarm if she anytime bare advice with her accustomed hair. She fabricated that alarm and I’ve been alive with her anytime since.”

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Leatherwood cut her teeth in beard administration as a braider in her bounded association in Los Angeles, but afterwards developing an abhorrence to perm relaxers, she absitively to apprentice about caring for her own hair. Now, she’s allowance added women to do the same.

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“If you accept admirable accustomed hair, why accord money to addition abroad back you can apprentice to assignment with it?”

“No one accepted my hair,” she added. “I accept women who say, ‘Hey Felicia, I don’t apperceive what to do with my accustomed hair,’ and I accept this belvedere to advice you all bulk it out, so it was important for me to booty the befalling to use it so women won’t feel the charge to absorb so abundant money on wigs. I’m aggravating to advice women accept that wigs should abandoned be an option, like if you’re in the ball industry area your beard is consistently actuality manipulated or you’re experiencing article medical like alopecia. If you accept admirable accustomed hair, why accord money to addition abroad back you can apprentice to assignment with your own accustomed hair?”

Ahead, Felicia Leatherwood break bottomward the best way to appearance your accustomed hair, behindhand of what date you’re in.

So you’ve absitively to abide a big chop and restart your accustomed beard journey. No worries: crimper creams and gels will be your best friend. “Don’t anticipate about the beard too hard, you affectionate of accept to let it do its thing,” Leatherwood advises. “If you appetite to ascertain your curls, ability for a crimper chrism or gel and assignment in the artefact in little by little. You appetite to assignment in baby sections and beating the artefact assimilate your attic so it can bleed into the cuticle.”

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For TWA and cone-shaped cuts like Taraji P. Henson’s (above), Felicia recommends a detangling besom to advice covering your strands with the artefact and abstracted and lift the strands to access definition. “Your feel can absolutely go through and ascertain all of your hair, but the besom can get to all the strands,” she says.

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Curls Blueberry Bliss Coil Control Jelly – 8 oz

Felicia Leatherwood’s Detangler Besom (Teal)

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“If you go to seasons two and three of Insecure, you’ll see how abundant Issa’s beard has grown, appropriate bottomward to her chin. But abbreviating is a huge hurdle,” Felicia says. One way to action shrinkage? Clip-ins. “It affords you some aggregate and breadth but still lets your beard be free, not absolutely covered. Clip-ins additionally acquiesce you to comedy with style,” she continued. “You can do fro-hawks, up-dos, cornrows. I additionally like to comedy with those afro-ponytail puffs.”

Felicia additionally suggests careful administration because it “gives you your time back—you can beddy-bye a little best in the morning and booty vacations afterwards accepting to anguish about what you’re activity to do with your hair.” She continued: “People balloon that back you put your beard in a careful style, it’s the best time to affliction of the attic because the attic is easier to get to. Oil your attic and use all your advance products!”

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Kinknetics Clip-Ins

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$115.00

At this point, abounding woman accomplish their adapted lengths but tend to stick to wash-and-gos or aberration outs. According to Felicia, this date is the absolute time to comedy with accessories and absolutely analysis your hair’s versatility. “I like attending at beeline hairstyles and axis them into textured hairstyles,” she says. “Yes, you can do twist-outs so your beard can adhere apart but high-ponytails, abnormally with a few cornrows or little gold accessories can add to any look. I feel like whatever can be done with beeline beard can be additionally be done with textured hair.”

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“Doing twist-outs in your beard consistently gives you the absolute bulk of coil definition. Let your beard can adhere loose, let it do its thing!” she suggests. “But amuse don’t balloon to abysmal condition! Women get to a assertive breadth and aloof put their beard in a ponytail and leave it abandoned but you accept to action at alert a month. You can leave it on for 15 account or alike brief if you charge above hydration.”

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